It's hard to put into words how meaningful this trip is to me. Having planned a 4.5 day trip for 2 years now, I guess my expectations are high!?
Berlin was different for me this time. I was here 6 or so years ago, but this time the whole city seemed to be sending me the message about the holocaust, and the atrocities that were committed as well as the very long history and notarity of the Jewish people in Berlin.
Funny how the mind focuses on what consumes us most at the time....
Ok, more later...almost boarding first flight of the trip...Berlin to Munich...then Munich to Krakow, Poland.
Gooten Morgan Berlin und auf Wiedersehn!
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One flight down and one to go..flight to Krakow leaves at 11:00am. Time now, 10:55am. We landed so late, they drove me in a bus, in the pouring rain I might add, to the small regional Lufthansa flight to Krakow.
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| It's a rainy day for a flight - but with help just made it! Lufthansa drove a couple of us right to the plane. |
Phew. Ok, I made I, but will my bag???
Cross your fingers...
Bags and I both made it to Krakow safe and sound!!!
Lufthansa offered an on board snack package of potato salad, and 2 small breaded chicken strips on top, with a quarter hard boiled egg. Let the Polish culinary games begin! Looking forward to a real lunch in Krakow. In fairness the complementary glass of Cabernet helped it go down smoothly!
The magic of travel. When I left Berlin it was pouring rain, and here in Krakow it's sunny.
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| Rainy in one country? No problem, fly to another! |
My bag arrived quickly, and I was off to the Sheraton in a taxi.
My taxi driver taught me 13 new words he thought I could use.
Jenkewya. Thank you
Proshia. Please
Jen dobia. Good morning
Cheshs. hello
Dobranos. Good evening
Levo. Is left
Right. Pravo
Spatze. Walk
Yedzenya. Eat
Schabov. Pork chop
Swantze. Sunny
Yest. Yes
Nyeh. No
After a short taxi ride I arrived the Sheraton Hotel from the airport (cost 90PLN, about $30). It was a good thing I exchanged money and had 120PLN. Of course, even though the sticker in the window said the cab takes all credit cards, it happened to be his first day and he didn't have the ability to take anything but cash. Wow, how lucky for me to have a brand new driver. Ya right! I almost didn't have enough Polish cash. It was actually unbelievable, but that's all the exchange booth had at the Munich airport.
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| The Sheraton is apparently the nicest hotel in Krakow |
The front desk said they were fully booked, so of course they could not upgrade me!? Why is it that almost every hotel is fully booked when I check in? The room looked ok, with a great view of the roof. Acceptable...no...! So, I called the front desk and made arrangements to meet with hotel manager. She was very nice and quietly listened to my whole personal travel history including a bit about last year being unable to come due to the volcano. Finally she couldn't take it any more and asked how she can help. She corroborated the check in clerk's story about the hotel capacity, but I did get upgraded to the Club floor....same room, but with a view of Wawel Hill and Wawel Castle as well as the Vistula River.
Within 10 minutes we (my Uncle Myer and I) were downstairs ready to accomplish my first 2 incredibly urgent tasks. First, I needed a SIM card for my iPad so I can keep up with my email and use the I Internet. Hey, it's important to have access to a map, since I have absolutely no sense of direction. I also need access to my Polish translator - yes I am determined to try it out.
After applying some clever IT techniques (taking the SIM card out and replacing it), we got the iPad working! Rather than pay $3.21/MB, it costs 30PLN for 1GB. That works out to 1 cent/MB. Duh... Is there a question as to the cost benefit of my efforts? That means that the Rogers charge would be 321x the price! Needless to say, I'm happy!!!
Next I needed some more Polish cash (PLN also known as Zloty), so I needed to find a bank machine. Lucky me, because it was right across the street. Ok, now I was set. Ready for checking out Krakow.
We jumped in a cab and went straight to Kazimierz!
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A bit about Kasimerz, from the Internet: (http://www.jewishkrakow.net/en/)
"Kazimierz, the heart of Jewish Krakow, is now a thriving district, a mixture of cultural festivals, café culture, antique shops, art galleries, restaurants and bars, a place to watch the world go by over a coffee or to catch up with friends.
However, it would be wrong to talk about Kazimierz merely in those terms, for any visitor, regardless of nationality or religious persuasion, it's worth pointing out that Kazimierz's history spans centuries. It was originally established in 1335 and named after its founder, King Kazimierz Wielki (Casimir the Great), who intended it to rival the established city of Krakow.
It remains one of the most culturally significant Jewish areas in the world. In 1495, the Jews who were expelled from Krakow settled here, and Kazimierz became a mixture of Christian and Jewish culture.
During the war the Nazis did all they could to destroy and ruin Kazimierz. After the war, decades of communist neglect left Kazimierz a crumbling ruin. It became a dark and dangerous place, a district to be avoided after nightfall.
With communism's fall, Kazimierz has changed beyond all recognition. As well as the aforementioned art galleries and cafés, buildings have been renovated and museums opened. There has also been a reawakening in the importance of Jewish history and culture in Poland, for instance, the Jewish Culture Festival which takes place every year attracts thousands of visitors, both Jews and non-Jews alike.
Perhaps one of the most important factors in Kazimierz's renewal was Steven Spielberg's film, Schindler's List, which was filmed here and which generated intense interest in the area.
With its beguiling streets, unforgettable and unique atmosphere, synagogues and museums, as well as its cafés, bars and art galleries, Kazimierz is a place that anyone who comes to Krakow must visit."
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We started wandering around and found a street with vendors selling antiques. One vendor had a lot of World War 2 items, including, interestingly enough, both Nazi and Jewish memorabilia. There were a few Jewish items including silver Torah pointers (this is used instead of a finger to point to the Torah when reading from it), from the 19th century, silver wine cups, antique prayer books and then something special caught my eye. In one glass case he had original, authentic armbands from various Jewish Ghettos.
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| Armbands Worn in Various Ghettos |
He had 5 armbands, worn in different ghettos by some of the Jewish prisoners but with what we have planned this week, these seemed more meaningful. I picked out 3 to get. In retrospect I should also have gotten one of the pointers. I think the seller is back Wednesday, so we can try again.
Next we decided to have lunch. We found a little outdoor cafe to enjoy the fresh air and beautiful weather.
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| Myer enjoying the outdoor cafe life in Kazimierz |
Hmmmm, what to order? We decided to have a "typical Polish soup". A lot of countries have food items on their menus that are "typical", and I often wonder if they really are "typical".
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| "Typical Polish Soup" |
The description went like this: "Traditional Polish soup made from fermented rye with white sausages and an egg".
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| Michael enjoying a beer in Kazimierz. Vivat Na zdrowie |
We both followed the soup with a salad. Of course I had to try the local German beer...yum! ****
Right across the street from the cafe was what used to be called, The New Synagogue. In Hebrew the sign still says Bet Knesset Chadash, which means literally, New Synagogue. The name was later changed to Remuh Synagogue. Address: ul. Szeroka 40.
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| Rumeh Synagogue visited by hundreds of Israeli Soldiers |
The Remuh Synagogue in Krakow is the only synagogue in the city to remain in active use.
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The Internet summarizes: http://www.jewishkrakow.net/en/see/remuh-synagogue/
"It's easy to forget walking around the synagogues of Kazimierz that not so long ago these synagogues were vibrant places of prayer, providing a focal point for the Jewish community that lived here. The Remuh Synagogue maintains this link with the past being the only synagogue still used for worship.
It still retains a huge significance for many Jews across the world who come to worship at the grave of Rabbi Moses Isserles. Rabbi Moses was regarded as a great author and scholar, perhaps his most notable piece of work being the Mappa - the Tablecloth, a religious-legal work which focuses on Ashkenazic customs. Many pilgrims leave notes on the Rabbi's grave asking him to intercede on their behalf with God. **** The synagogue is commonly referred to as the Remuh which is derived from the Hebrew acronym of Rabbi Moses Isserles - Rema.
The original synagogue was founded in 1553 but was destroyed by fire with a replacement being built in 1557. The building's current architecture can be traced back to 1829 when restoration work was undertaken.
The smallest synagogue in Kazimierz it has an atmosphere all of its own. A cobbled courtyard with white walls greets visitors to the Remuh; these walls contain stone tablets commemorating deceased Jews, some of them victims of the Holocaust.
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| Outside Courtyard of Rumeh Synagogue |
During the Nazi occupation the Remuh's interior was decimated, ceremonial objects were robbed and furnishings destroyed. After the war the synagogue again came under the authority of the Jewish Denominational Council and as a result of their efforts its pre-war appearance was restored in 1957.
Despite the damage caused during the war, some elements of the original synagogue remain, for instance, a collection box dating from the 16th century can be found just by the door to the prayer room of the synagogue. The Aron-Kodesh, in which the Torah is stored, is also an original feature and dates from 1558.
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| Rumeh Synagogue Front View |
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| Rumeh Synagogue Bima |
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| Rumeh Synagogue Interior |
Simple in appearance, the most instantly striking feature of the synagogue is the bimah. The wrought iron surround is an exact copy of that found at the synagogue before the war. Although not part of the original design, the bimah has a polychromed double door which is ornately decorated with a menorah, flowers and fruit baskets. The history surrounding this particular aspect of the synagogue is unknown, the doors are a post-war feature, it is thought likely that they came from another synagogue outside of Krakow.
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| Rumeh Synagogue Rear View |
The cemetery was founded at around the same time as the synagogue and is one of the oldest in Poland. It was used for burials up until 1800 and although some burials took place after this time the cemetery gradually fell into disrepair.
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| Rumeh Cemetery Established 1558 |
The cemetery was all but destroyed during the Second World War and the site used as a rubbish dump. Remarkably, one of the few gravestones to survive was that of Rabbi Moses (Remuh). Some Jews take this as a sign of his holiness and power.
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| Rumeh Cemetery Many Headstones with Notes and Rocks |
In 1959 the cemetery was renovated and reconstructed in the form that can be seen today. Many of the tombstones are no longer in their original place having been dug out of the ground during the renovation of the cemetery. Small fragments from tombstones that were too small to be used again were used to create what is now known as Krakow's Wailing Wall.
The Remuh Synagogue and the old cemetery is a reminder of a life gone by, a place of pilgrimage and a historical treasure.
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| Famous Headstone of Rabbi and Dr (front) |
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| Headstone of Rabbi Dr (back) |
Opening times and prices:
The synagogue is open from 9:00am to 6:00pm in the summer and until 4:00pm in the winter (November-April). Please note the synagogue sometimes closes before 4:00pm during the winter months, depending on when the sun sets or on religious services. The synagogue is closed on Saturdays and during Jewish holidays.
Admission to the synagogue and cemetery is 5zl and the money goes towards restoration of the site."
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The cemetery was very interesting with hundreds of intact headstones. Many were covered in stones. "It's common practice to place a stone on a love one's grave in the Jewish faith as a sign you've visited the grave site before leaving. The stone you leave is a sign the deceased person's memory lives on after his passing. The more stones on the grave site; the more honored and respected the deceased was in life." (http://www.ehow.com/about_6457920_do-stones-placed-grave-mean_.html)
After a short rest we decided it was time for dinner. We had already had a very busy afternoon. The Sheraton recommended a restaurant for "typical Polish cuisine" called Miod Malina.
We decided to start with a nice cold German beer...are you sensing a pattern forming yet?
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| One Last Beer After a Hard Touring Day! Yes Another Typical Polish Meal |
For dinner we ordered a few dishes and shared them all.
We started with grilled crunchy sheep cheese with cranberry jelly, which was out of this world! What a great combination.
Then we shared a plate of 8 perogies and grilled onions and only had 2 each, trying to strategically save room for the rest of the dinner.
Next I had to order and try the tender spareribs marinated with honey, served with their special plum sauce. The ribs were great because they were cooked in an open wood oven and truly were fantastic.
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| Yummm. Imagine Ribs Cooked in an Open Fire Oven |
Finally we split a beef tenderloin steak which was served with pear, gorgonzola, cranberry jelly and thyme. Sooooo gooooood.
While we were finishing dinner it had started to rain, which from a photographic perspective makes things both more challenging and interesting. It was a scene from another era with the lights reflecting off the wet cobblestone streets.
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| A Scene from the Past - Wet Cobblestone Street in Krakow |
We accidentally found the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice), which I will save for another day. For now below you can see the interior the way we saw it tonight, empty.
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| Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) Interior |
This blog took longer to write than the actual activities! It's 12:45am and I am definitely pooped.
It was a really great first day filled with memorable sites. Tomorrow we head to Rakow, Potok and Szydlow. Time to find our roots.....
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