A True Symbol of Victory!

Today was definitely one of the best memories of the Berlin arm of this trip.

One of the things that I love to do is go to the synagogues in the international cities I visit.  In Berlin, there are 5 synagogues, and the one that was recommended was Pestalozzistrasse.

It's location, named after the street it is on, which is Pestalozzistrasse 14-15, 10625 Berlin - Charlottenburg. They have Fri night services: winter 6pm, summer 7pm. Sat morning 9:30am

Pestalozzistrasse Synagogue Outside

Before I tell you my memorable story and personal account from this morning, here is a description of the Synagogue from an online source:

"This is one of the most popular places of Jewish worship in the city, and probably the best place to go to get a "feel" for a representative Liberal Berlin service. There is an organ and a mixed choir but seating is separate. If you're lucky, you'll be able to hear the Community's long-standing and very popular head cantor, Estrongo Nachama. The Pestalozzistrasse Synagogue was built in 1911-12 on the initiative of Betty Sophie Jacobsohn, a businesswoman who donated the property on which it stands. It functioned as a private synagogue for several years until it was taken over by the Community in 1919. It was the most important and popular orthodox synagogue in western Berlin. Like many Berlin synagogues, it is tucked away discreetly in a courtyard behind an inconspicuous entrance, an old habit that the smaller, private congregations found especially difficult to break. It is built in a Romanesque style, though with the red brick facade and massive form typical of German medieval architecture. The synagogue was set on fire during the Kristallnacht pogrom, but the blaze was put out by the fire department, which feared that the neighboring buildings would be burned. The interior of the synagogue was only slightly damaged. After the Nazi defeat, services resumed here in late summer 1945, with participants sitting on borrowed garden chairs. The building quickly became the center for the remnants of the community (those returning from the camps as well as those who lived underground during the last years of war) who gathered here to ask about relatives and exchange news. In 1947 the synagogue was renovated."

Ok, here's my story:

I arrived after an early morning meeting and it was only 9:15 am, and the services start at 9:30am.  The taxi let me off in front and I entered a very non-descript building with simply the address posted. Inside the doors was a lane way and there were 2 Berlin police and 2 representatives from the shul and I was asked where I was from and to identify myself with my passport.  When they realized I wasn't George Bush (kidding), they let me proceed to the metal detectors, like at the airport and I removed all the metal from my pockets to go through.  They were somewhat curious about my iPad (don't ask why I brought it, because I don't know).

Kippah from Synagogue
On the left is a Jewish Star of David and inside is the name.

When I entered the sanctuary I put on my kipa and they had a Talis there, so I was all set.  Before I even sat down, the President of the shul greeted and welcomed me. Of course I don't speak German and he immediately tried Hebrew.  Years of Private school paid off and I was able to converse with him. I told him I was from Canada and he was very nice.  He asked me if I was a Cohen or Levi or Israelite, and he caught me off guard and I said no I'm Canadian.  After straightening me out, he kind of chuckled at my stupidity and walked away - again he was very nice.

A few minutes later he came back and gave me a special honour.  He invited me to go up and take the Torah and walk behind the Cantor through the whole sanctuary holding the Torah.  I had a few minutes to worry about exactly what I was supposed to do and noticed a plaque at the front of the sanctuary.

The plaque said:

ZERSTORTE 9 November 1938 - 5699
Wiedereingeweight
September 1947. Rosh Hashannah 5708

** Translated it means: Demolished 9 November 1938 - (5699 is the Hebrew calendar date)
      Rebuilt September 1947 on Rosh Hashannah 5708 (Hebrew date)


Ok, it's my turn to go up - the President of the Shul came to get me. He led me up to the front of the synagogue and I figured out that I was supposed to stand behind the Cantor and not in front (he leaned over and told me in Hebrew - he goes first and smiled), all was good.  I walked slowly behind him and the whole congregation one by one reached over to touch their hand or Talis to the Torah and kiss it. I helped by leaning in and smiling and saying Shabbat Shalom. (Again years of early training in private school).

I thought I was done - nope - they had me stay on the bima (stage) in front of the whole congregation (there were probably 35-40 people there), and sit on a big chair and hold the Torah for about 15 minutes while they read the first Torah portion.  Then they took it from me and I sat down in my original spot in the congregation.  Am I done? No!

A few minutes later they came to get me to again receive the Torah and again follow the Rabbi around. Now, I may be jet lagged still, but I caught on much faster this time - I was experienced in the Berlin ritual.  I proudly followed the Cantor around, smiled and leaned in to allow the congregants to again kiss the Torah as I passed.  I was starting to feel more confident - maybe I should join?  When they returned the Torah to the Arc, I was now done - I got a few handshakes, smiles and Yesh Koach - a term for have strength - like a congratulations...I sat down and the service continued.

Throughout the processions I looked at my two colleagues, Dr. Victor Feinman and Dr. Jordan Feld smiling ear to ear watching me participate like I was one of the regulars here.

Pestalozzistrasse Synagogue Berlin
(I snuck in one photo)

Around 11:30 the service was over and we were invited to join the congregation at the Kiddush, where they pray a little more and enjoy wine and food.  I couldn't believe it. They had a table set up with herring (not my favourite food), smoked salmon, eggs, cheese, salad and drinks. After they made the appropriate prayers, we sipped the traditional Manishevitz wine - sweet - and it does always bring back memories of my youth.

Then they brought around the Challah (egg bread) to say the Hamotzee - the prayer over the bread so we could eat.  The better wine came out and of course I accepted a glass, and then they offered each of us a glass of Vodka - ok hey when in Rome...or Berlin....right?  So we made a La Chaim and drank that and enjoyed the food and the experience.

For me, the most meaningful comment came from Dr. Feinman who is in his 80s and escaped from a concentration camp in Poland. He said, the fact that we can now have a service like this in the middle of Berlin, is A True Symbol of Victory!

What a great morning and what a great memory.