Going Back to Where it all Began

Today we spent a few hours driving towards the past, probably the only ones in our family who have ever gone back to Szydlow, Rakow and Potok.

Szydlow's official 2006 population is listed as 4,904, but includes 41.5 sq miles. Within the walls of Szydlow, during our 90 minute visit, we saw about 10 people!?

Szydlow Coat of Arms

The legend of Szydlow is interesting. How did Szydlow get it's name?

"Szydło was his name. He was the leader of a band attacking merchant caravans and other travellers. The high road was considered dangerous because of the highwaymen. They robbed travellers of valuables which they stashed in nearby caverns. One time Szydło's bunch attacked a royal retinue and a fighting ensued between highwaymen and royal troopers. The king knelt down on a nearby hill and began to pray. He vowed to build a church there, if the God brought a victory. And the attackers were crushed down. Szydło was taken prisoner and led the king to a cavern with robbed treasures. The king made a donation of the treasure to erect a church and founded a settlement that was named after the highwayman Szydło." (http://www.szydlow.pl/index_en.php?id=foreign/en/history)

Enroute we thought we would take a slight detour to Pinczow, where the local archives are located to see if we could get my Grandmother's birth record.  Good plan...the archive closed a while ago. Oops...oh well I do now have a direct number to call, which I can do from home at a later date. Kind of disappointing, but we tried.

Good News...Made it to Polish Archives Office
Bad News....it's Been Long Since Closed!

A Better View of the Archive Office

As excited as we were, we thought we probably should get lunch somewhere before hitting the open road.  We asked around and found out there was a restaurant in Chmielnik that served Jewish food. That sounded cool, it was on the way, and hey...we are in Poland, so let's try anything.

The Famous (kind of) Cymes Jewish Style Restaurant in Chmielnik

The inside of Cymes seemed cozy and immediately after we came in, the marketing machine of an owner and manager, turned on the Jewish music to accompany our meal.

Cozy and Intentionally Targeted to Jewish Customers

Always time for another group shot before eating.

Michael, Anna and Myer in Cymes Restaurant

We spent some time checking out the all Polish menu, and even with Anna's help couldn't decide what to order, so the owner offered to bring us an assortment of delicacies.  Yes, we should have shared one plate! Wait to you see what they brought us.....

Yes this is Supposed to be Lunch...Are you Kidding Me?

Now I like food just as much as the next guy, and maybe more, but that is a ridiculous amount of food. I should mention that we each had a bowl of chicken soup first.  THEN we got this huge plate of food. Let's see what we have here...goose stomach (skipped that one), dumplings. koogle meatloaf, coleslaw, carrots and other salad, and a few other things which I can't identify (but did try).

Myer is Stunned, but the Good News is...
He Did Order a Diet Coke!

Before we left, the owner asked us to sign a release.  No, I'm kidding. He asked us to sign a guest registry - I told you he was a marketing machine.

Myer Reading Michael's Comments and Signing The Registry

We did enjoy the experience and I left a nice note!

What I Wrote in the Registry at Cymes Restaurant

A quick note about Chmielnik - before the war apparently 8,000 out of the 12,000 residents were Jewish. This fact relayed to us by the owner of Cymes Restaurant.

Time to hit the road.  Although we should have jogged off the lunch, we still decided to drive, so we started with Szydlow, which was 130km and about a 2 hour drive from Krakow.  After spending months viewing images and reading a lot about Szydlow, I would finally see and hopefully feel a bit what it must have been like for them.

Szydlow is the town where my Grandfather who was born in 1900 was born. In fact, my Grandfather Philip, whose Jewish/Polish name was Fajwel left Szydlow on August 25, 1929 for Canada on a ship called the Lithuania, which landed in Halifax.

Many generations of Betels were born in Szydlow:

Fajwel's Parents Yechiel Myer Betel (born 1861) and his wife Zelda nee Krawczyk
Yechiel's parents Josek (pronounced Yossel) Betel (born 1822) and his wife Gela nee Warga
Josek's parents Nuta Betel (not sure of birth date yet) and his wife Ruchla nee Goldberg

So, as far as I know at least 4 generations going back to probably around 1780 or so have been in the same small Medieval Village called Szydlow.

Szydlow 1869 (http://www.szydlow.pl/index_en.php?id=foreign/en/history)

Two hundred and thirty years later we made it back!

Szydlow From Afar

We parked our car and headed for the front gate of Szydlow, called the Krakow Gate.  At one time there were 3 gates to enter Krakow, now, only one remains.

Want to read more about the Krakow Gate?  "The main structure of the gate is from the 14th century, upper storeys were rebuilt in the Renaissance style at the beginning of the 16th century. It has an attic and two circular towers. There are two rectangular windows between the bays of the storey, and four embrasures in semicircular bays of the attic. Stone stairs in the western wall led to a sentry walkway running along the town walls. The projecting part of the gate has a vaulted arch that used to house an iron portcullis that closed the gate from the inside and was connected to a drawbridge. From the outside, the gate had oaken doors. A square foregate that protruded outside and was connected with the gate itself by means of so called neck was an additional protection of the entrance, protecting a chain drawbridge." http://www.szydlow.pl/index_en.php?id=foreign/en/cracgate

Krakow Gate of Szydlow

On our way to the Synagogue we checked out the canon protecting this medieval village.

Canon Near the Museum in Krakow

Next we headed to the synagogue.  Here is a bit more about the Synagogue "The synagogue is in the northern part of the medieval town. It was built from broken stone in the middle of the 16th century. Stuccos and paintings from the 18th century are still to see today. The building was build on a rectangular plan, a wooden outbuilding was added later on the western side with a gallery for women on the first floor. There is a vestibule on the ground floor. Arched windows, buttresses, attic and strong walls, about 2 m thick, made the synagogue kind of a small fortress.

Inside the synagogue there is Aaron ha-Kodesh - a place where a rabbi put in the Torah after prayers were over. Under plaster, there are remains of wall-paintings and inscriptions of few dates. One of the dates is on the vault under the former bema (raised platform for reading from holy books) between pillars is 1699, the other one on the southern wall next to the name of Jehuda Lejb is 1784. This is the evidence that the synagogue was renovated.

  In the eastern wall, there was a late Renaissance (beginning of the 17th century) altar for the Pentateuch rolls (holy books). At the entrance at the western wall there are rectangular bays to house the fire and coin-box.

  The synagogue features an exhibition of artefacts connected with the Jewish culture, and in particular holy books and sacred objects. One can see a four-metre high statue of Moses holding the Decalogue and 18 brass bass-reliefs with scenes form the Old Testament by the Polish sculptor Prof. Gustaw Zemła. " http://www.szydlow.pl/index_en.php?id=foreign/en/synagogue"

Szydlow Synagogue (built 1534-1564)

One story says..."having an affair with a Jewess Esterka, the king founded in Szydłów one of the first synagogues in Poland." http://przewodnik.kurort24.pl/punkt.php?jk=en&tr=12&pt=2

Interior of Synagogue

The Synagogue was filled with interesting relics such as Torahs, silver Torah pointers, tombstones from the original cemetery, and local artwork.

Lots of Items on Display in the Synagogue

The cemetery of Szydlow is no longer being used and there are no markings or even a way to find the exact location. But, here in the Synagogue/museum they do have a few headstones on display.

Cemetery Headstones Rescued from the Destroyed Cemetery

One thing I wanted to point out. Both Myer and I were astonished at the amount of construction and renovation of Szydlow.  The roads, buildings, and surrounding walls are all being reconstructed, renewed, or repaired.  This felt kind of strange because we both somehow expected to see what it must have been like in 1920.  Change is inevitable everywhere.  Apparently the last major reservation took place in 1946.

After checking out every inch of Szydlow, we decided to launch a relentless search for the Jewish cemetery.  We asked the oldest person we could find and they gave us directions to a spot on the other side of the river on the way to Chmielnik on the right hand side of the road (I think I found it - hard to tell since there are no markings whatsoever).

We Think This is the Original Cemetery Location

Another View of What we Think is the Cemetery Location

After leaving Szydlow we headed straight for Rakow.

"This wilderness became more civilised and populated when Jan Sienieński of the Dębno coat of arms, who was the Żarnów castellan an a devoted believer of John Calvin theories, established the town of Raków in 1567. The name was to commemorate his wife’s coat of arms – Rak (known also as Borowa, Warna or Warnia), depicting a crayfish."  http://pio.wrota-swietokrzyskie.pl/web/guest/606

It turned out to be a cute little village with a town square. Apparently one of the stores around the square was where my family had a business.

Rakow Town Square 

Rakow Town Square

One town to go...Potok. We went from largest to smallest.  Potok is where my Grandmother (Bubbie) grew up.

A funny thing happened on the 5km drive to Potok - actually within the village itself.  You know the joke: Why did the chicken cross the road?  I think that joke started here.

These chickens were playing chicken with us!

The owner did not appreciate that we even considered rushing the chickens as they crossed the road.

This chicken owner was not too happy with us.

Ok, so there wasn't much to Potok, but we did go.

Time to head back for our 2 hour commute to Krakow and yes...dinner!

Wierzynek Restaurant - Boy Were we Hungry?!?

So that was our day visiting the land of our forefathers in Poland.

Tomorrow is the big one - Schindler's Factory, Auschwitz and Birkenau. So, since it is again 1:45 in the morning and I fulfilled my promise of blogging, I need to sleep.

Zzzzzzzzz...till tomorrow.....Goodnight

Krakow Here We Come!

I think I was one of the first people at the Tegel Airport in Berlin this morning, waking up at 5:00am. My colleague had an earlier flight than mine, so we went to the airport together.

It's hard to put into words how meaningful this trip is to me. Having planned a 4.5 day trip for 2 years now, I guess my expectations are high!?

Berlin was different for me this time. I was here 6 or so years ago, but this time the whole city seemed to be sending me the message about the holocaust, and the atrocities that were committed as well as the very long history and notarity of the Jewish people in Berlin.

Funny how the mind focuses on what consumes us most at the time....

Ok, more later...almost boarding first flight of the trip...Berlin to Munich...then Munich to Krakow, Poland.

Gooten Morgan Berlin und auf Wiedersehn!

.............

One flight down and one to go..flight to Krakow leaves at 11:00am. Time now, 10:55am. We landed so late, they drove me in a bus, in the pouring rain I might add, to the small regional Lufthansa flight to Krakow.

It's a rainy day for a flight - but with help just made it!
Lufthansa drove a couple of us right to the plane.

Phew. Ok, I made I, but will my bag???
Cross your fingers...

Bags and I both made it to Krakow safe and sound!!!

Lufthansa offered an on board snack package of potato salad, and 2 small breaded chicken strips on top, with a quarter hard boiled egg. Let the Polish culinary games begin!  Looking forward to a real lunch in Krakow. In fairness the complementary glass of Cabernet helped it go down smoothly!

The magic of travel. When I left Berlin it was pouring rain, and here in Krakow it's sunny.

Rainy in one country? No problem, fly to another!

My bag arrived quickly, and I was off to the Sheraton in a taxi.

My taxi driver taught me 13 new words he thought I could use.  

Jenkewya.  Thank you
Proshia. Please 
Jen dobia. Good morning
Cheshs. hello
Dobranos. Good evening
Levo.  Is left
Right. Pravo
Spatze. Walk
Yedzenya. Eat
Schabov. Pork chop
Swantze. Sunny
Yest. Yes
Nyeh.  No

After a short taxi ride I arrived the Sheraton Hotel from the airport (cost 90PLN, about $30).  It was a good thing I exchanged money and had 120PLN. Of course, even though the sticker in the window said the cab takes all credit cards, it happened to be his first day and he didn't have the ability to take anything but cash. Wow, how lucky for me to have a brand new driver. Ya right!  I almost didn't have enough Polish cash.  It was actually unbelievable, but that's all the exchange booth had at the Munich airport.
 

The Sheraton is apparently the nicest hotel in Krakow

The front desk said they were fully booked, so of course they could not upgrade me!?  Why is it that almost every hotel is fully booked when I check in?  The room looked ok, with a great view of the roof.  Acceptable...no...!  So, I called the front desk and made arrangements to meet with hotel manager.  She was very nice and quietly listened to my whole personal travel history including a bit about last year being unable to come due to the volcano.  Finally she couldn't take it any more and asked how she can help.  She corroborated the check in clerk's story about the hotel capacity, but I did get upgraded to the Club floor....same room, but with a view of Wawel Hill and Wawel Castle as well as the Vistula River.

Within 10 minutes we (my Uncle Myer and I) were downstairs ready to accomplish my first 2 incredibly urgent tasks.  First, I needed a SIM card for my iPad so I can keep up with my email and use the I Internet.  Hey, it's important to have access to a map, since I have absolutely no sense of direction. I also need access to my Polish translator - yes I am determined to try it out.

After applying some clever IT techniques (taking the SIM card out and replacing it), we got the iPad working!  Rather than pay $3.21/MB, it costs 30PLN for 1GB.  That works out to 1 cent/MB.  Duh... Is there a question as to the cost benefit of my efforts? That means that the Rogers charge would be 321x the price!  Needless to say, I'm happy!!!

Next I needed some more Polish cash (PLN also known as Zloty), so I needed to find a bank machine. Lucky me, because it was right across the street.  Ok, now I was set. Ready for checking out Krakow.

We jumped in a cab and went straight to Kazimierz!

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A bit about Kasimerz, from the Internet: (http://www.jewishkrakow.net/en/)

"Kazimierz, the heart of Jewish Krakow, is now a thriving district, a mixture of cultural festivals, café culture, antique shops, art galleries, restaurants and bars, a place to watch the world go by over a coffee or to catch up with friends. 

However, it would be wrong to talk about Kazimierz merely in those terms, for any visitor, regardless of nationality or religious persuasion, it's worth pointing out that Kazimierz's history spans centuries. It was originally established in 1335 and named after its founder, King Kazimierz Wielki (Casimir the Great), who intended it to rival the established city of Krakow. 

It remains one of the most culturally significant Jewish areas in the world. In 1495, the Jews who were expelled from Krakow settled here, and Kazimierz became a mixture of Christian and Jewish culture. 

During the war the Nazis did all they could to destroy and ruin Kazimierz. After the war, decades of communist neglect left Kazimierz a crumbling ruin. It became a dark and dangerous place, a district to be avoided after nightfall. 

With communism's fall, Kazimierz has changed beyond all recognition. As well as the aforementioned art galleries and cafés, buildings have been renovated and museums opened. There has also been a reawakening in the importance of Jewish history and culture in Poland, for instance, the Jewish Culture Festival which takes place every year attracts thousands of visitors, both Jews and non-Jews alike. 

Perhaps one of the most important factors in Kazimierz's renewal was Steven Spielberg's film, Schindler's List, which was filmed here and which generated intense interest in the area. 

With its beguiling streets, unforgettable and unique atmosphere, synagogues and museums, as well as its cafés, bars and art galleries, Kazimierz is a place that anyone who comes to Krakow must visit."

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We started wandering around and found a street with vendors selling antiques. One vendor had a lot of World War 2 items, including, interestingly enough, both Nazi and Jewish memorabilia. There were a few Jewish items including silver Torah pointers (this is used instead of a finger to point to the Torah when reading from it), from the 19th century, silver wine cups, antique prayer books and then something special caught my eye.  In one glass case he had original, authentic armbands from various Jewish Ghettos.  

Armbands Worn in Various Ghettos

He had 5 armbands, worn in different ghettos by some of the Jewish prisoners but with what we have planned this week, these seemed more meaningful.  I picked out 3 to get. In retrospect I should also have gotten one of the pointers. I think the seller is back Wednesday, so we can try again.

Next we decided to have lunch.  We found a little outdoor cafe to enjoy the fresh air and beautiful weather.  

Myer enjoying the outdoor cafe life in Kazimierz

Hmmmm, what to order? We decided to have a "typical Polish soup".  A lot of countries have food items on their menus that are "typical", and I often wonder if they really are "typical". 

"Typical Polish Soup"

The description went like this: "Traditional Polish soup made from fermented rye with white sausages and an egg". 

Michael enjoying a beer in Kazimierz.  Vivat Na zdrowie

We both followed the soup with a salad. Of course I had to try the local German beer...yum!  ****

Right across the street from the cafe was what used to be called, The New Synagogue. In Hebrew the sign still says Bet Knesset Chadash, which means literally, New Synagogue. The name was later changed to Remuh Synagogue. Address: ul. Szeroka 40.

Rumeh Synagogue visited by hundreds of Israeli Soldiers

The Remuh Synagogue in Krakow is the only synagogue in the city to remain in active use. 




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The Internet summarizes: http://www.jewishkrakow.net/en/see/remuh-synagogue/

"It's easy to forget walking around the synagogues of Kazimierz that not so long ago these synagogues were vibrant places of prayer, providing a focal point for the Jewish community that lived here. The Remuh Synagogue maintains this link with the past being the only synagogue still used for worship.

It still retains a huge significance for many Jews across the world who come to worship at the grave of Rabbi Moses Isserles. Rabbi Moses was regarded as a great author and scholar, perhaps his most notable piece of work being the Mappa - the Tablecloth, a religious-legal work which focuses on Ashkenazic customs. Many pilgrims leave notes on the Rabbi's grave asking him to intercede on their behalf with God. **** The synagogue is commonly referred to as the Remuh which is derived from the Hebrew acronym of Rabbi Moses Isserles - Rema.

The original synagogue was founded in 1553 but was destroyed by fire with a replacement being built in 1557. The building's current architecture can be traced back to 1829 when restoration work was undertaken.

The smallest synagogue in Kazimierz it has an atmosphere all of its own. A cobbled courtyard with white walls greets visitors to the Remuh; these walls contain stone tablets commemorating deceased Jews, some of them victims of the Holocaust.

Outside Courtyard of Rumeh Synagogue

During the Nazi occupation the Remuh's interior was decimated, ceremonial objects were robbed and furnishings destroyed. After the war the synagogue again came under the authority of the Jewish Denominational Council and as a result of their efforts its pre-war appearance was restored in 1957.

Despite the damage caused during the war, some elements of the original synagogue remain, for instance, a collection box dating from the 16th century can be found just by the door to the prayer room of the synagogue. The Aron-Kodesh, in which the Torah is stored, is also an original feature and dates from 1558.

Rumeh Synagogue Front View

Rumeh Synagogue Bima

Rumeh Synagogue Interior 

Simple in appearance, the most instantly striking feature of the synagogue is the bimah. The wrought iron surround is an exact copy of that found at the synagogue before the war. Although not part of the original design, the bimah has a polychromed double door which is ornately decorated with a menorah, flowers and fruit baskets. The history surrounding this particular aspect of the synagogue is unknown, the doors are a post-war feature, it is thought likely that they came from another synagogue outside of Krakow.

Rumeh Synagogue Rear View

The cemetery was founded at around the same time as the synagogue and is one of the oldest in Poland. It was used for burials up until 1800 and although some burials took place after this time the cemetery gradually fell into disrepair.

Rumeh Cemetery Established 1558

The cemetery was all but destroyed during the Second World War and the site used as a rubbish dump. Remarkably, one of the few gravestones to survive was that of Rabbi Moses (Remuh). Some Jews take this as a sign of his holiness and power.

Rumeh Cemetery Many Headstones with Notes and Rocks

In 1959 the cemetery was renovated and reconstructed in the form that can be seen today. Many of the tombstones are no longer in their original place having been dug out of the ground during the renovation of the cemetery. Small fragments from tombstones that were too small to be used again were used to create what is now known as Krakow's Wailing Wall.

The Remuh Synagogue and the old cemetery is a reminder of a life gone by, a place of pilgrimage and a historical treasure.

Famous Headstone of Rabbi and Dr (front)

Headstone of Rabbi Dr (back)

Opening times and prices:

The synagogue is open from 9:00am to 6:00pm in the summer and until 4:00pm in the winter (November-April). Please note the synagogue sometimes closes before 4:00pm during the winter months, depending on when the sun sets or on religious services. The synagogue is closed on Saturdays and during Jewish holidays.

Admission to the synagogue and cemetery is 5zl and the money goes towards restoration of the site."

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The cemetery was very interesting with hundreds of intact headstones. Many were covered in stones. "It's common practice to place a stone on a love one's grave in the Jewish faith as a sign you've visited the grave site before leaving. The stone you leave is a sign the deceased person's memory lives on after his passing. The more stones on the grave site; the more honored and respected the deceased was in life." (http://www.ehow.com/about_6457920_do-stones-placed-grave-mean_.html)

After a short rest we decided it was time for dinner. We had already had a very busy afternoon.  The Sheraton recommended a restaurant for "typical Polish cuisine" called Miod Malina. 

We decided to start with a nice cold German beer...are you sensing a pattern forming yet? 

One Last Beer After a Hard Touring Day!
Yes Another Typical Polish Meal

For dinner we ordered a few dishes and shared them all.
We started with grilled crunchy sheep cheese with cranberry jelly, which was out of this world! What a great combination.  

Then we shared a plate of 8 perogies and grilled onions and only had 2 each, trying to strategically save room for the rest of the dinner. 

Next I had to order and try the tender spareribs marinated with honey, served with their special plum sauce. The ribs were great because they were cooked in an open wood oven and truly were fantastic. 

Yummm.  Imagine Ribs Cooked in an Open Fire Oven

Finally we split a beef tenderloin steak which was served with pear, gorgonzola, cranberry jelly and thyme.  Sooooo gooooood.

While we were finishing dinner it had started to rain, which from a photographic perspective makes things both more challenging and interesting. It was a scene from another era with the lights reflecting off the wet cobblestone streets. 

A Scene from the Past - Wet Cobblestone Street in Krakow

We accidentally found the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice), which I will save for another day. For now below you can see the interior the way we saw it tonight, empty. 

Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) Interior

This blog took longer to write than the actual activities!  It's 12:45am and I am definitely pooped.

It was a really great first day filled with memorable sites. Tomorrow we head to Rakow, Potok and Szydlow.  Time to find our roots.....

A True Symbol of Victory!

Today was definitely one of the best memories of the Berlin arm of this trip.

One of the things that I love to do is go to the synagogues in the international cities I visit.  In Berlin, there are 5 synagogues, and the one that was recommended was Pestalozzistrasse.

It's location, named after the street it is on, which is Pestalozzistrasse 14-15, 10625 Berlin - Charlottenburg. They have Fri night services: winter 6pm, summer 7pm. Sat morning 9:30am

Pestalozzistrasse Synagogue Outside

Before I tell you my memorable story and personal account from this morning, here is a description of the Synagogue from an online source:

"This is one of the most popular places of Jewish worship in the city, and probably the best place to go to get a "feel" for a representative Liberal Berlin service. There is an organ and a mixed choir but seating is separate. If you're lucky, you'll be able to hear the Community's long-standing and very popular head cantor, Estrongo Nachama. The Pestalozzistrasse Synagogue was built in 1911-12 on the initiative of Betty Sophie Jacobsohn, a businesswoman who donated the property on which it stands. It functioned as a private synagogue for several years until it was taken over by the Community in 1919. It was the most important and popular orthodox synagogue in western Berlin. Like many Berlin synagogues, it is tucked away discreetly in a courtyard behind an inconspicuous entrance, an old habit that the smaller, private congregations found especially difficult to break. It is built in a Romanesque style, though with the red brick facade and massive form typical of German medieval architecture. The synagogue was set on fire during the Kristallnacht pogrom, but the blaze was put out by the fire department, which feared that the neighboring buildings would be burned. The interior of the synagogue was only slightly damaged. After the Nazi defeat, services resumed here in late summer 1945, with participants sitting on borrowed garden chairs. The building quickly became the center for the remnants of the community (those returning from the camps as well as those who lived underground during the last years of war) who gathered here to ask about relatives and exchange news. In 1947 the synagogue was renovated."

Ok, here's my story:

I arrived after an early morning meeting and it was only 9:15 am, and the services start at 9:30am.  The taxi let me off in front and I entered a very non-descript building with simply the address posted. Inside the doors was a lane way and there were 2 Berlin police and 2 representatives from the shul and I was asked where I was from and to identify myself with my passport.  When they realized I wasn't George Bush (kidding), they let me proceed to the metal detectors, like at the airport and I removed all the metal from my pockets to go through.  They were somewhat curious about my iPad (don't ask why I brought it, because I don't know).

Kippah from Synagogue
On the left is a Jewish Star of David and inside is the name.

When I entered the sanctuary I put on my kipa and they had a Talis there, so I was all set.  Before I even sat down, the President of the shul greeted and welcomed me. Of course I don't speak German and he immediately tried Hebrew.  Years of Private school paid off and I was able to converse with him. I told him I was from Canada and he was very nice.  He asked me if I was a Cohen or Levi or Israelite, and he caught me off guard and I said no I'm Canadian.  After straightening me out, he kind of chuckled at my stupidity and walked away - again he was very nice.

A few minutes later he came back and gave me a special honour.  He invited me to go up and take the Torah and walk behind the Cantor through the whole sanctuary holding the Torah.  I had a few minutes to worry about exactly what I was supposed to do and noticed a plaque at the front of the sanctuary.

The plaque said:

ZERSTORTE 9 November 1938 - 5699
Wiedereingeweight
September 1947. Rosh Hashannah 5708

** Translated it means: Demolished 9 November 1938 - (5699 is the Hebrew calendar date)
      Rebuilt September 1947 on Rosh Hashannah 5708 (Hebrew date)


Ok, it's my turn to go up - the President of the Shul came to get me. He led me up to the front of the synagogue and I figured out that I was supposed to stand behind the Cantor and not in front (he leaned over and told me in Hebrew - he goes first and smiled), all was good.  I walked slowly behind him and the whole congregation one by one reached over to touch their hand or Talis to the Torah and kiss it. I helped by leaning in and smiling and saying Shabbat Shalom. (Again years of early training in private school).

I thought I was done - nope - they had me stay on the bima (stage) in front of the whole congregation (there were probably 35-40 people there), and sit on a big chair and hold the Torah for about 15 minutes while they read the first Torah portion.  Then they took it from me and I sat down in my original spot in the congregation.  Am I done? No!

A few minutes later they came to get me to again receive the Torah and again follow the Rabbi around. Now, I may be jet lagged still, but I caught on much faster this time - I was experienced in the Berlin ritual.  I proudly followed the Cantor around, smiled and leaned in to allow the congregants to again kiss the Torah as I passed.  I was starting to feel more confident - maybe I should join?  When they returned the Torah to the Arc, I was now done - I got a few handshakes, smiles and Yesh Koach - a term for have strength - like a congratulations...I sat down and the service continued.

Throughout the processions I looked at my two colleagues, Dr. Victor Feinman and Dr. Jordan Feld smiling ear to ear watching me participate like I was one of the regulars here.

Pestalozzistrasse Synagogue Berlin
(I snuck in one photo)

Around 11:30 the service was over and we were invited to join the congregation at the Kiddush, where they pray a little more and enjoy wine and food.  I couldn't believe it. They had a table set up with herring (not my favourite food), smoked salmon, eggs, cheese, salad and drinks. After they made the appropriate prayers, we sipped the traditional Manishevitz wine - sweet - and it does always bring back memories of my youth.

Then they brought around the Challah (egg bread) to say the Hamotzee - the prayer over the bread so we could eat.  The better wine came out and of course I accepted a glass, and then they offered each of us a glass of Vodka - ok hey when in Rome...or Berlin....right?  So we made a La Chaim and drank that and enjoyed the food and the experience.

For me, the most meaningful comment came from Dr. Feinman who is in his 80s and escaped from a concentration camp in Poland. He said, the fact that we can now have a service like this in the middle of Berlin, is A True Symbol of Victory!

What a great morning and what a great memory.